Wednesday, 25 June 2014

Tuesday 24 June – Chicago, Illinois – First Impressions

At breakfast we get talking to a 66 year old man called Nick who is wheelchair bound – up until 3 years ago he was fighting fit, very sporty, with a private plane pilot's licence. - then it was discovered he has a muscle wasting illness similar to motor neurone disease. This trip is really a chance for him to make the most of what time he has left; he's due to return to England in August. He comes from Oxford; he has no family in England however, apart from a sister he's not close to. He would like to settle in Vancouver, Canada, but can't afford the money it would cost him for private health insurance/care, especially in view of his deteriorating health. This emphasises how important it is to follow your dream, if you can, while you can! (Especially for us oldies – we don't know what lies around the corner).

So far, we love Chicago! It's clean, and airy, and the temperature's just right – quite a lot cooler than Las Vegas, but still warm enough not to need a cardigan or fleece.

We decide to visit the Art Institute of Chicago as a priority, just a couple of blocks away from our hostel, on Michigan Avenue. On the way there we find a lovely coffee shop and bakery with wifi! We're always pleased to find a café with nice cakes and pastries – it doesn't happen that often. The pastries are delicious. We also stop at an art gallery owned by a Romanian artist specifically to exhibit his own paintings. We think he must be very successful to be able to afford such a prestigious gallery in the heart of Chicago, just down the road from the Art Institute. We talk to him for a long time, and he shows us photos of Romania on his computer. He's interested that we've been there but says we haven't seen the real, beautiful Romania. The capital Bucharest certainly looks lovely.

We intend to spend just a couple of hours in the Art Institute of Chicago, but end up being there for about 5 hours and we've only really touched the tip of the iceberg. It's fortunate that both of us are passionate about paintings, especially those done by the “Old Masters” - though we do like some modern art too. There are wonderful paintings here by Renoir, Monet, El Greco, Van Gough, to name but a few; and sculptures by Auguste Rodin. One of the most famous paintings in the gallery is a huge painting, George Seurat's A Sunday on La Grande Jatte – 1884. If you'd mentioned the name of that painting before I'd seen it, I wouldn't have had a clue which one it was – but when I see it I recognise it as being a famous painting I've seen before, in books and on notecards.

We lunch in the Art Institute café, enjoying the chance to sit for a while; why is looking at art so tiring? We want to see as much as we can, as we won't have time to come back. There are displays of furniture and porcelain, much of which comes from England and is 200 – 400 years old, but in immaculate condition.

There is an new exhibition at the Art Institute, showing the Surrealist paintings of Magritte, 1926 – 1938. The paintings show ordinary objects in out-of-the-ordinary situations. Some of the paintings are quite disturbing, not my cup of tea really, but interesting.

By the time we've seen the Magritte exhibition we are really tired, and decide to call it a day. It's now about 5.00 pm; it's actually nice to leave the air-conditioned gallery and enjoy the warm evening sunshine. We decide to stroll down to the lakeside; Chicago is built by the side of Lake Michigan. It's the largest fully American lake (some of the lakes cross the Canadian border), at 307 miles long, and 118 miles wide. It's average depth is 279 feet, and maximum depth is 923 feet.


20 miles of Lake Michigan's shoreline are within the city of Chicago. It's lovely to sit by the lake and watch the small sailing boats (of which there are many) bobbing on their moorings alongside the shoreline. There's a sort of promenade which borders the lake, and several runners and joggers and cyclists are taking advantage of this traffic-free path to enjoy the evening sunshine.

We talk to an African American who is sitting on a bench, with his cycle next to him. He tells us he's lived in Chicago since 1991, and loves it here; his home is actually 9 miles away, but he can cycle there all the way on this promenade, which extends for over 20 miles. He gives us some ideas of what to do in Chicago, if we have the time!

We walk wearily back towards our hostel, passing huge fountains on the way. There is no water shortage in Chicago; they get a lot more rain, and Lake Michigan supplies all the city's water needs. In some cities the fountains are turned off due to the drought many areas of America are experiencing.

We have some difficulty finding a restaurant close to the hostel. Eventually we find one, and it's packed; either it's very good, or there's no-where else close by to eat! The food is
not too bad, but we feel overpriced, and the service from our particular waitress much poorer than what we're used to in the USA! Reg says we'll only tip her 10% on this occasion!

When we emerge from the restaurant the ground is wet – it's been raining. Back in our hostel room, we have a cuppa, using our trusty little kettle. Reg plays with his tablet, but I'm out like a light.













































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