Sunday 13 July 2014 – Coming Home

I wake up at 5.00 am. When I open the curtains of our cabin, I'm excited to see twinkling lights across the bay – land in sight! Reg gets up to have a look, and we realise it's the Isle of Wight in the distance. We enjoy seeing land more and more clearly as we draw in to Southampton Docks. We are back in England!

The restaurant opens for breakfast at 6.30 am, and there are people queuing up before this – everyone who is disembarking wants to make sure that they are ready in good time. Those leaving the ship at Southampton, like us, have to vacate their cabins by 8.00 am.

Just as we've done so many times before when leaving hotels and hostels in America, we put on our backpacks and trundle our suitcases along the carpeted corridors of the Queen Mary. Down in the lift for the last time, and soon we are checking out at the gangway, and then are on English soil! The passport showing was done a few days ago on the ship, so disembarking is a very seamless, easy process. We have nothing to declare at customs (interestingly, the “red” customs point where you would go if you did have something to declare is unstaffed!).

Inevitably we are going home with a little more luggage than we came with, but it all fits into the taxi which will take us to the train station. We hadn't realised that we'd be able to disembark this early, and rather than wait for the later train we are due to catch, we decide to pay the extra and take the 9.54 train to Abbey Wood, Bristol.

The train only has 3 carriages to start with, then another carriage is added later on; it is jam packed for most of the journey. We manage to get seats and it's lovely to see the English countryside – you forget how beautiful it is.

When we arrive at Abbey Wood, we have difficulty getting off the train with all our luggage, because the train is so crowded. A woman has to get off with her suitcases, let us off, and then let us back on!

Elaine is waiting for us on the platform! It's wonderful to see our daughter after 2 months away. She has driven to collect us, and within a few minutes we are home – and soon George, Marianne, 5 month-old Arlie, and Jasper the dog are at the door, too, to welcome us back – what a lovely homecoming.

It feels good, but strange, to be back home, and we know it will take us a while to re-orientate ourselves. Even as we savour the joy of being re-united with our loving family, our homecoming turns bitter-sweet when we are told difficult-to-hear news of illness in families we hold dear.

This is the last blog of our star-spangled journey, where we've visited some wonderful places, and met some lovely people, travelling around America by train, and then crossing the Atlantic Ocean on the Queen Mary 2.

Thanks to those who have dipped into this blog now and again – and to those who have followed us the whole way! I said I would list a few things about America and Americans which struck us as being different from the UK – these are listed below. Those of you who have travelled to America will already know most of them!

• The prices on American goods are before tax; it comes as a shock at first to pay more for everything than the price you see on the label.
• Sometimes you feel unsure using your credit card eg for car hire – as the amount can be left open – you don't always sign for an exact amount.. Using your pin is not yet that common in the USA.
• The tipping culture is big in America. You need to be prepared to add a tip of at least 15% on meals and drinks out – more if you've had exceptional service.
• The service in the hospitality industry in USA is generally very good indeed. The pay is only just over $2 an hour, and waiters and waitresses rely on tips to make up their wages. When thanked for service, they will nearly always say, “You're welcome.”
• You will usually be brought iced water when you eat out, as a matter of course. Americans are a little obsessed with ice. There is usually more ice than liquid in soft drinks. In the sleeper carriages on American trains, there are “drinks posts” with free coffee, fruit juice, and a coolbox full of ice. Some Americans even carry their drinks onto the trains in a coolbox of ice.
• Lemonade in America is an uncarbonated drink, made with lemons. Our “lemonade” is called “soda” in America.
• Meals in American restaurants are often of much bigger portions than we would expect in the UK.
• The food on American passenger trains, where there are sleeper carriages, is excellent (eg you can often order steak) – and it's included in the ticket price.
• The toilets on Amtrak (the American passenger train service) are generally lovely and clean. On many trains there are toilets for disabled people.
• The toilets in America have a higher water level in the bowl than toilets in the UK – this means they stay cleaner (you may need to think about that one!)
• American “freeways” warn you of “roadwork” - not “roadworks”.
• Coming up to a zebra crossing, you will often see the sign “ped xing”.
• “No entry” is sometimes indicated by the words “wrong way”.
• Many towns and cities in America are built in “blocks” - “the launderette is 2 blocks down” etc. Often at a crossroads there is either a red hand which turns white when it's safe to cross – or the red hand turns into a second counter as you cross the road.
• There aren't that many roundabouts in America – although a few towns have several. Some Americans have told us that they find the concept of a roundabout difficult when driving abroad,.
• There are numerous billboards, or advertising boards, with photos of lawyers who will help you to sue following an accident.
• Seen on a billboard over a freeway - a dentist advertising “4 wisdom teeth out for $899”
• The American long-nosed lorries always seem very clean. We once noticed a line of lorries queuing up for a “lorry carwash”.
• The electric current is 110 volts instead of our 240 volts. This meant that our trusty travel kettle took 15 minutes to boil and my travel hairdryer emitted very little drying air!
• Electric light switches work the opposite way to ours – down for off, and up for on.
• Americans are mostly very proud of being American – and of their country. The American flag – the “star spangled banner” - is displayed in many more places than the Union Jack is in the UK.
• Americans are mostly warm, friendly people. We found it funny to be greeted (especially in the Southern United States) with “How are y”all” - even when there are only 2 of us – or even 1!

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Voyage - Day 6 – Saturday 12 July – Our last day on the Queen Mary 2

We can't believe how well we've been sleeping at sea – partly because the bed is so comfortable, and perhaps partly due to the barely noticable, but still there, gentle movement of the ship. Another day of not doing very much at all.

During our usual leisurely breakfast, we chat at length to a Scottish people who took the plunge 24 years ago to move from a remote Scottish village to Florida. The husband is a mechanic and has built up a business in Florida – the wife does his accounts and has home-schooled their 2 children, both of whom were born in America. They are travelling to the UK to visit family. I have to admire people who have a dream, seize their moment, and live the dream!

Reg goes off to a talk by a 1950's movie star, Kim Novak, and I catch up on the blog. At lunch we have coffee/tea and a couple of cakes (!), then walk around the ship 4 times to lessen the impact of all that sugar and carbohydrate. The day just seems to unhurriedly unfold; how will we get used to being back on the hamster wheel when we get home? (ok, a wheel for retired hamsters, but it still goes quite fast at times...)

Before dinner we pack our cases – when we next unpack, we'll be at home! The thought fills me with a mixture of apprehension and excitement.

We share our last dinner with Marilyn, Ian, Sarah and Alan. We've all got on so well; we exchange contact details and hopefully we'll keep in touch. Back in the cabin, our lovely steward Fernando has turned down our bed, and left 2 after dinner mint chocolates on our bed, as usual. We get ready for an early night; Reg has worn his suit, and I've worn my long dress and jacket, for the last time this holiday! Breakfast tomorrow morning starts really early, at 6.30 am. We've opted for self-disembarkation, which means we're responsible for taking all our own luggage off the ship with us. The advantage of this is that we can leave the Queen Mary 2 as soon as we are ready to go.

Voyage - Day 5 – Friday 11 July – Queen Mary 2 – a brilliant way to travel home

One of the strange things to get used to on the Queen Mary 2 (and perhaps this is in common with most cruise ships, I don't know) is that you don't need any money on board ship – not even a credit or debit card. They scan your credit card at the start of the voyage, and that's it; any drinks you buy, or purchases from the shop, you just hand over your plastic-card room key.

You don't need to tip anyone employed on board as an amount is taken by Cunard from your credit card for tipping, and distributed among the staff. The amount is about $80 or £50 per guest, and I actually think that's fair for the service you get; the staff (and there are over 1200 of them) work incredibly hard to ensure that the guests' stay on the Queen Mary 2 is as enjoyable as possible. Staff training must be excellent, because every member of staff goes out of their way to help you, and always with a smile. You can choose not to have this service charge deducted from your credit card, but I actually feel it saves a lot of hassle. When we leave, we'll extra-tip one or two special members of staff, such as our cabin steward, who's been not only super-efficient, but friendly too.

It seems that many staff have a 9 month or 10 month contract on board ship, with 2 – 3 months off per year. The majority of the domestic and catering staff seem to be from the Philippines.

It's hard to describe in words the grandeur of this ship; there's lots of shiny surfaces which reflect her status as a luxury liner. For example all the lift doors (and there are a lot of lifts, several at each end and in the middle of the ship) are mirror doors, with fancy inlaid patterns. There's deep pile carpet everywhere, even on the wide staircases; ceilings in vestibule areas are high, with chandelier-effect lighting, and a magnificent, huge display of flowers in the main vestibule, near the purser's office. Everywhere seems to be immaculately clean; this is partly to look nice, but also to avoid the possibility of a sickness infection spreading through the ship, as did once happen apparently on the Queen Mary 2. There are hand sanitisers strategically placed at various area of the ship, particularly at the restaurant entrances, and near toilets.

The ship itself is vast; a walk 3 times around the deck is just over a mile. (Reg and I have done this a couple of times). I've already mentioned in a previous blogpost some of the activities on offer – these take place in various areas of the ship. There are 5 swimming pools, a cinema (The Illuminations room, with a planetarium in the middle – also used for giving lectures), the Royal Court Theatre, The Queens room (where the “Black and White ball” and “Ascot Ball” take place, and where you can learn to ballroom dance, and join in a bingo game). The Queens Room is also the venue for the exquisite afternoon tea.

Other venues include the Canyon Ranch Spa (fitness and beauty therapy), Connexions Room (where you can learn to do things with your ipad & attend lectures), Chelsea Room (the home of the Watercolour Art Class), Atlantic Room (where you learn to play bridge), Chart Room (seminars in the day , musical interludes, including a harpist, and jazz in the evenings), Boardroom (Masonic Gatherings and other clandestine meetings, plus book club), Empire Casino (where you lose your money), Empire Bar (where you can get together for needlework and knitting), Knightsbridge Room (indoor cycling), the Fairways (complimentary golf competition). There's a beautiful, well-stocked library on deck 8, with a bookshop next to it, and a various array of gift/clothes/jewellery/perfume shops on deck 3. The purser's office is situated on deck 2.

There's also the Commodore Club (where gay, lesbian, bi-sexual and transexual people can meet up), and the G32 nightclub which stays open very late indeed.

There are various eating venues; the upper strata of guests (those with suites on board) eat in the Princess Grill (other passengers can peek through the windows of this restaurant as they walk around the deck, and oggle the ultra rich). The majority of guests are allocated the Britannia Restaurant, with waiter service, as their eating place – but a no-cost alternative is the Kings Court Buffet, where food is available all day, or the Golden Lion Pub, where pub quizzes and trivia quizzes take place during the day.

Guests can pay also extra to dine in the Todd English a la carte restaurant.

In addition to this there are dog kennels on one of the upper decks, games courts, and areas and rooms where children and teenagers can get together. And I'm sure there are a few places that I've forgotten to include.

Although there are all these various rooms and activities, we've only dabbled in a few – Reg more so than me. I've been to one “oldie” film, 2 concerts, and one drama presentation. The rest of my time has been spent eating, sleeping (in bed and on a deck lounger), reading, writing the blog, and looking at the sea. The Queen Mary has been a brilliant, relaxing way to travel home to England, especially after our hectic 2 months journey around America. We do realise that we are very privileged to have had the opportunity to sail on this magnificent ship. As the voyage progresses time seems to be passing more quickly – we can't believe we have just one more day on board the Queen Mary 2.

Voyage - Day 4 – Thursday 10 July – Where's the time gone?

We're half-way through our voyage home – where has the time gone? We've got ourselves into a pattern of doing very little. We enjoy going to the Britannia Restaurant for breakfast rather than the Kings Court Buffet – it's lovely to be waited on! The choice of food is amazing. You can have breakfast in bed if you want to, but we've never opted for that.

Probably because there's no land excursions between New York and Southampton, the days are gradually blending into each other and it's hard to remember what happened the previous day! At the breakfast table there are 2 men who we think are gay; one of them is celebrating his 50^th birthday on this trip. We talk about the church we went to in Boston which was so inclusive of everyone, and which was one of the first churches to perform a gay marriage ceremony.

“You certainly have packed a lot into your trip,” says one of the men.

At 11 am, Reg decides to take part in the “Beat the Keeper” football activity on deck 13. Half way through I go up to watch – deck 13 is the very top deck of the ship. The football court (smaller than a 5-a-side court) is netted up the sides and overhead for obvious reasons. The activity is being run by a man and a woman in their 20's or early 30's, obviously part of the sports activity organising team on the ship. All sorts of people are taking part in “Beat the Keeper”; a couple of women who are probably in their 70's, a few men like Reg in their 60's, teenage boys, and three young children, a girl and 2 boys. It's nice to see that the activity is for anyone and everyone. The emphasis is on having fun though I think there's a competitive spirit among the older men – and the teenage boys!

Afterwards Reg says that's his exercise for the day. We have coffee/green tea and cake, which serves as lunch, as really we're still full up from breakfast. Then we relax in the shade on the deck loungers, enjoying the view of the sea. I'm engrossed in my book; Reg decides to go back to our cabin for a sleep, and a bit later on I join him! And this is the sum total of what we do during the day on the Queen Mary. Some seasoned passengers, who've been on lots of cruises, say that they quite enjoy this particular trip because there are several days without having to get off the boat. I guess others would find it boring; but for us it's just right. It's as if you have permission to relax and do nothing, simply because there's nothing you need to do – unless you want to. I like the fact that we socialize at breakfast time, and after that, don't need to talk much to anyone else until dinner, unless we want to. This many sound anti-social, but it actually can be quite tiring talking and listening to people for long periods of time. We feel we have the right balance of integrating and spending time alone (and, sometimes, time apart from each other!) This is the perfect way to unwind after our hectic 2 months.

I think we are really lucky with the people with whom we share our table at dinner. There are 6 of us, and I feel we've developed a real connection between us. Later that evening, I meet an elderly lady who isn't enamoured with the people on her dinner table. I sit next to her while waiting in the Winter Gardens (lots of trees in tubs and various other foliage in here) for actors/actresses from the Royal Academy of Drama and Arts to perform a one hour adaptation of “Pride and Prejudice” - one of my favourite stories!!

Reg has gone off to see a 3D film “Captain America – The Winter Soldier”. The elderly lady is travelling alone, and has been on the Queen Mary many times - she is obviously “old school”.

“I enjoy the formality of the ship,” she says firmly. She lives in America but has a strong English accent. “You see all kinds of sights on this ship,” she adds, nodding towards 2 young woman who've come into the Winter Gardens bar, dressed very casually indeed, in sleeveless tea shirts and shorts. The Winter Gardens bar, and the Kings Court Buffet, are the only 2 areas on the ship (apart from corridors and cabins) where a man can go after 6 pm without wearing a jacket.

“What's it like, travelling alone on this ship?” I ask the elderly lady. “At least there's plenty of opportunity for company, if you want it.”

“That's why I come,” replies the lady. “I'm very much alone at home – I rarely go out. This is a whole different world, I love cruising. But the other guests on my dinner table aren't really my cup of tea. There's one man, and 4 ladies; the man's alright, but all the women talked about tonight was their tattoos, and where they are on their bodies. A bit too much information for me!”

I'm reminded of the day in Los Angeles when Reg and I sat on a bus opposite an extremely beautiful young woman. She was wearing shorts, and the whole of the exposed skin on both legs were absolutely covered in tattoos. I remember feeling inexplicably sad about this. It wasn't about judging the young woman for the way she looked; it was that her natural beauty, in our eyes, was camouflaged by navy blue tattoos all over her legs. Just an honest reflection of how we felt.

I absolutely love the RADA adaptation/presentation of “Pride and Prejudice”. It's brilliant, one of the highlights of the trip for me. The actress who plays Mrs Bennett is superb. The Winter Gardens is packed; I'm sure it helps that probably most people there know the story really well.

Back in the cabin, Reg is reading in bed; he enjoyed the 3D film he went to see. Another day over on the Queen Mary 2!

Voyage - Day 3 – Wednesday 9 July – A chance to have our say

At breakfast there's a British couple who've lived in Bermuda for over 20 years – he works for Coca Cola. However, many years ago the man used to be an engineer on Cunard ships. He tells us of an occasion when, because of the port they were in, it was necessary for the passengers of the cruise ship to be ferried ashore in smaller boats. He suddenly noticed that one of the boats, full of passengers, was rather deep in the water – and realised it was slowly sinking! He quickly lifted a hatch to discover that someone had forgotten to put the drain plugs in the boat.

“What did you do?” I ask.

“I calmly whispered to the officer in charge that he needed to ask the passengers to get out of the boat. He asked me why, and I told him. The officer then simply told the passengers that there was a difficulty with this particular boat and that they would need to transfer to another one. Luckily they all got out before they realised it was sinking. Then we had a heck-of-a-job to lynch the boat out of the water and drain the water out, because it was so heavy.”

“What a good job you were there,” I comment.

Reg is talking to a man called Martin who has his own market research company and who is carrying out independent market research for Cunard. He asks if he can interview us later today, as he's interested in what we think about the Queen Mary, especially as we're “first-timers”. There's a bottle of champagne in it for us. We agree to meet Martin at 12,00 noon in the Winter Garden Bar, although actually it will be 1.00 pm as the clocks go forward an hour at noon.

Reg goes to a lecture at 11.00 am on the Bermuda Triangle, while I stay in the cabin, balcony door open to the sea, and write some of yesterday's blog. Then we meet up with Martin.

Martin tells us that the Queen Mary will be going into dry dock next year for refurbishment. He wants to know in particular what our first impressions of the Queen Mary were, what we think about our cabin, and what we think about Kings Court, the hot and cold food buffet area.

We share that we honestly felt out of our comfort zone when we first came on board, but now we're enjoying ourselves. We tell Martin that because men had to wear a jacket to dinner on the first night, we felt that excluded us from having a restaurant meal, as our clothes weren't pressed. We explain that the Kings Court buffet area is a bit confusing as it's in two separate parts.

We tell Martin that we actually really like our cabin (sorry, stateroom) as it is – except that more electric points would be useful. We also mention that free wifi would be brilliant! If hostels can do it – why can't they?

Martin has recorded our interview; he thanks us and we go our separate ways.

At 3.30 pm, we decide we must go at least once for afternoon tea, which takes place in the Queen's Room, with a harpist playing in the background. There are white jacketed waiters and waitresses serving tea from silver teapots, and holding silver plates decorated with tiny sandwiches, warm scones with jam and whipped cream, and bite-sized cakes of several varieties. Lovely! We chat to a young waitress from Lvov in the Ukraine, and tell her we were in her home town 2 years ago. She is on her 4^th yearly contract with the Queen Mary – working 10 hours a day, 7 days a week, for 9 months of the year. Her South African husband works on the ship too! At least they get to see each other.

Can we manage 6.00 pm dinner sitting on top of that delicious afternoon tea? Luckily the emphasis at dinner is on quality rather than quantity – so we can. However, I did mention to Martin the market researcher that the after dinner coffee could be hotter. Even though I ask for extra-hot coffee, it still comes lukewarm. Dinner itself is really good, interlaced with enjoyable table conversation. We are lucky to be sharing our table with Marilyn, Ian, Sarah and Alan - people we can relate to, who are warm and funny and sincere, and who are willing not only to tell their story, but to listen to a little of ours as well.

Voyage - Day 2 – Tuesday 8 July – the Queen Mary's Catholic Chaplain

We get up later this morning, and after breakfast we spend the late morning/early afternoon period sleeping on the loungers on the dry side of the deck – it's very wet with sea spray over the other side, and quite breezy. This side is sheltered and calm, hot in the sun, but quite cool in the shade. The outside temperature is 23 degrees. though you need a fleece if sitting in the shade, as we are. I have my kindle, but I soon doze off!

We still aren't sure whether this cruising way of life suits us or not – although we can't knock this opportunity to have a rest & relax as much as we like, with good food thrown in! Reg goes to see a 1950's film in the afternoon called “Bell, Book and Candle”, starring Kim Novak and James Stewart; Kim Novak herself is on the ship, and gives a personal introduction to the film. While Reg goes to the cinema, I catch up on writing yesterday's blog. Reg says,

“I thought you weren't going to do a blog on board ship. The whole idea of this cruise is to have a rest.”

I reply that some people have asked me to say something about our time on the Queen Mary 2. Since much of our time on the ship consists of eating, relaxing and sleeping, with a little reading here and there, I'll concentrate on a few specific events or people of interest.

It's good that there's lots of activities you can take part in if you want to – I was tempted by the Knitting class, but somehow didn't quite get there. There are people travelling alone, some of whom are of very senior years, and people with disabilities; and no doubt others too, who might for whatever reason be isolated in normal life, or might not be able to get out and about as much as they once did. On board ship you can very quickly become part of a community, with the opportunity to join in as few or as many activities as you choose. Some of the activities on offer are as follows:

Crosswords, Catholic Mass, Bridge Class, Rada Workshop (drama), Lectures on various subjects, Watercolour Class, Solo Travellers' Coffee Morning, Hooplah Competition, ipad workshop, Ballroom Dance class, Lunchtime Melodies, Line Dance Class, Flower Art Class, Complimentary Gaming Sessions (to get you hooked on the casino!), Needlework and Knitting, Variety Show Time ….

Surely there must be something for everyone on board this ship. Even if you don't want to join in activities, you have the option of sharing a table at mealtimes. As long as you can interact with people, I'm sure you would not be lonely on this voyage, or indeed alone, unless you choose to be. The plus point is that you don't have to join in any activities if you don't want to, and there is no one pressurising you to do so.

After our evening meal, we decide to go to the Variety Show – it's only on for just over an hour, then there's a break, and the whole show is repeated for those who have “second sitting” dinner at 8.30 pm.

I wait in the theatre before the start of the show, while Reg pops upstairs to get his tablet, as he's using it as a kindle. We decided not to have the internet while on board ship; partly because it's expensive, but also because Reg feels it will be good for us to be away from emails and from posting blogs for the next few days. We can still send the occasional text to keep in touch with family if we need to.

While I'm sitting waiting for Reg, a man comes to sit beside me; he introduces himself as the ship's Chaplain – he's a (partially) retired Catholic priest. When Reg returns, I introduce him to the priest, who jokes,

“I thought he must be your husband. Otherwise he would be very forward to come and sit next to you like he did!”

We don't have much time to chat, as the concert starts, and the young singer, Jenny Williams, who says she's from Manchester, really does have a superb singing voice. The Catholic Priest, bless him, sings along to all the songs he knows, which slightly reduces my enjoyment of her performance! When Jenny's sung a medley of songs (including one of my favourites, “Love Changes Everything” from “Aspects of Love”), the Royal Cunard Singers and Dancers do a Neil Diamond Tribute which is also very enjoyable. The theatre is packed with guests.

After the show we have a chance to chat to the Catholic Priest, and it's a fascinating conversation. He tells us he's 84 years old and has spent most of his working life in the Bronx area of New York, working specifically with black African Americans. We discuss the new Pope Francis, and agree that he is a charismatic revolutionary, following Christ in the way he lives and in the way he encourages others to live their lives. We discuss whether Catholic priests should be able to marry; the Chaplain agrees with us that they should, and that this will come in time. He believes however that there are all sorts of issues which will arise, such as the role of the priest's wife in supporting him within the church. Interestingly, he says, in some parts of the world, such as in Syria, priests have been able to marry for many centuries. We talk about the role of women in the Catholic church, and about gay marriage. All in a very short space of time! Soon people are starting to come into the theatre, ready for the second performance of the variety show.

We really enjoy our chat with the Catholic Chaplain of the Queen Mary 2 – I do believe it was meant to be that he came to sit next to me!

Voyage - Day 1 - Monday 7 July - The people you meet on the Queen Mary 2

The king-sized bed is superbly comfortable – apart from the dip in the middle! We sleep well – you cannot feel the ship's movement, only hear a gentle buzz from time to time. We are really tired. In the morning it's lovely to open the balcony door and to breathe in, and look at, the sea! At one point Reg spots dolphins – but I can't see them!

At breakfast we're asked if we mind sharing a table – and join 5 others. 4 of the other guests are Americans – and one, a lady who must be in her 90's, tells us firmly that she is English, but that she came to America as a GI bride after the war. She tells us she's worked hard to retain her English accent and is obviously quite a character. She talks about arriving in America for the first time.

“When we arrived, we all had to wear labels around our necks. Even if we went to the bathroom, someone had to accompany us. It was awful. Then I was put on a train to Michigan where my husband met me at the station. It's a wonder I remembered what he looked like.”

'You were brave, leaving your family in England,” I venture.

“Stupid more like,” retorts the old lady, with a twinkle in her eye. “I should never have come to America. Even now, I miss England terribly,”

It turns out though, that this lady has lost one husband and remarried, and raised a family in this land of opportunity; it doesn't sound as though her life has been so bad. Another couple at our breakfast table, Nelson and Joanne, had their Diamond Wedding this week – and this trip to England is their celebration of it. She is 79, he is 86; it is wonderful to witness their attitude to life and their joie de vivre. They tell us about all the cycling they did when they were younger.

“Our bikes are still hanging up in the garage – it will be easier for our children to get rid of them once we're gone.” says Joanne, philosophically.

Nelson and Joanne have also hiked to the bottom of the Grand Canyon and back up – no mean feat.

We are obviously going to meet a lot of people on this trip. There will have to be a balance between enjoying people's company and making sure we find time to relax and recoup all the energy we used travelling around America. I guess our cabin will be our “bolt hole” where we can retreat and just enjoy some space to ourselves. In fact, if we choose, the only time we need to mix with others is at mealtimes.

After breakfast, where the range of food on offer is mind-boggling, I take Reg's suit, shirts and my crumpled jacket and search out the laundrette/ironing room. It's a tiny room with a couple of washing machines and dryers, 2 ironing boards, and 2 irons. A fellow passenger is pressing a bright orange pair of trousers, and talks to me about the “Black and White Ball” taking place tonight. I tell her I don't have anything black and white with me to wear, and that I'm sure there'll be others in my position. (In fact, I don't even think we'll be going to the ball …..)

It takes me quite a long time to iron Reg's suit, a job I've never ever needed to tackle before. We've never taken his suit abroad, let alone left it in the bottom of a suitcase for 2 months, underneath everything else. I heave a sigh of relief when the ironing is done! Now we'll be able to go for dinner tonight in the restaurant, instead of in the self-serve buffet. It's formal dress; dark suits or tuxedo's for men, with ties or bow-ties being obligatory ….)

When booking our voyage, we opted to eat at the early sitting (6.00 pm) at a table for 6 people. The table is beautifully laid out with silver cutlery and fresh flowers. Reg looks smart in his dark lounge suit, white shirt and tie – I'm wearing a patterned long dress, cream jacket and cream shoes. No handbag needed as no money is used on board ship!

The other 2 couples at our table (all dressed in black and white) are very friendly and ask us where we were last night! I explain that we didn't have any ironed clothes to wear! We introduce ourselves – we're all from England. (I wonder if the “Queen Mary 2” put guests from the same country together at dinner or whether this is just a co-incidence?)

Marilyn, a retired health visitor from London, is obviously the carer for her husband Ian, who's in a wheelchair and says very little; he obviously understands everything though. When he does speak it's in a very measured way. Marilyn and Ian's body language indicates a loving relationship. They are probably a little older than us. Marilyn says, with a lovely smile, that they have come on the cruise so that she can have a rest. We find out later in the voyage that Marilyn and Ian have been married for 50 years and have 4 children and 12 grandchildren.

The other couple at our table are Alan and Sarah; she is a landlady of student accommodation, but used to be an engineer – she's one of those women who is very attractive but who doesn't seem aware of it; she is interested and interesting, and has a lovely, natural manner. Alan makes documentaries for television companies. He explains that all sorts of steps have to be taken to ensure that the programme-making stays within the law. He tells us about the documentary that he's currently preparing, and that we should see this programme on our television screens in about a year's time.

The dinner conversation is fascinating! The 2 couples are interested in hearing about our star-spangled journey around America. We'll be having dinner with these 2 couples every night (unless any of us choose to eat elsewhere eg in the Kings Court if we have crumpled clothes!). This is nice as it will give us the chance to get to know each other a little.

After dinner Reg and I listen for a while to a harpist in the “Chart Room”, a bar-lounge overlooking the sea. We don't bother to stay up for the “Black and White ball” which starts at 9.45 pm. There's a jazz band in the Chart Room lounge most nights; I love jazz, but we still haven't recovered from our 2 months of travelling. Back in our cabin, Reg reads – and I'm in bed by 10 pm.

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