Sunday, 25 May 2014

Sunday 25 May – Swamps and Alligators

Our last day in New Orleans, Louisiana, and we've booked to go on a tour of the Honey Island swamp, where we're told we'll see alligators, and much more besides. It's another early start, as we're being picked up by coach from our hostel at 7.45 am, so once again, no breakfast! We've been asked not to keep food in our room so as not to encourage pests (mainly cockroaches, I think – they are active in the dark in warm climates and are attracted by food). We do have crisps and nuts and a couple of other snacks well wrapped up in a backpack, plus of course our supply of tea bags.

Our coach is on time, and it's blissfully air-conditioned with tinted glass windows, and very comfortable. There are quite a few other passengers to be picked up, from various locations in New Orleans, so it's another 45 minutes or so before we're heading for the Honey Island Swamp, about ¾ hour drive away. As we drive through the outskirts of New Orleans, our driver tells us how various districts of this city were affected by Hurricane Katrina. Many homes and businesses were destroyed, and although it's 9 years since the storm and flooding, rebuilding is still taking place. Some industrial sites remain desolate, never to be rebuilt. But, our driver tells us, there is a positive aspect to the after effects of Katrina. There has been a surge of new investment in the city, not only in businesses, but in education, housing, and particularly in the film industry. New Orleans is second only to Hollywood in the number of films being made.

The swamp trip is well-organised. When we arrive at the swamp “outpost”, we pay our money, get given a wrist band, wait a few minutes, and then all those with that colour of wristband are collected by the “captain” of our boat. I'm glad I smothered myself in factor 30 suncream and brought a hat – the weather is hotter by the hour, and there is no relief from the sun in the uncovered vessel. We're given a run through of safety procedures, including where to find the lifejackets under our seats; the thought of having to enter alligator-infested waters in an emergency doesn't appeal though! I think part of the thrill of the trip is being a little afraid; it isn't until much later that our captain tells us that there are 1.5 million alligators in Louisiana and there have only ever been 3 attacks on people – none of them fatal. (He tells us that crocodiles, which aren't native to America apart from one small area right down in the south, are a different ball game altogether – much more aggressive and more likely to attack humans).

The swamps have their own beauty, with elephant plants emerging from the water and cypress trees, with sheaths of moss hanging from them, overhanging the water's edge. Our captain stops the boat and hoots; a troop of baby wild pigs (four months old) jostle up to the riverbank. The captain throws marshmallows to the pigs (they are obviously used to this – are marshmallows good for pigs?). These sweet treats encourage the animals to come close to the boat for us to take photos. The boatman explains that wild pigs are a problem in the swamplands because they erode the soil; they have no real enemies (unless caught by an alligator), and they are multiplying at a terrific rate.

We see a couple of snakes and swamp canaries, and finally we see the nose of a young alligator – the boatman tells us it's about 4 months old – in the water. Again the marshmallows come out, plus a sausage on a long stick, and these encourage the animal to draw alongside the boat and jump up out of the water to retrieve the food. We have a good view of the reptiles sharp teeth as it reaches up! We later come across a couple of fully-grown alligators, who are again enticed by tit-bits towards our boat for photo-shots. We joke that marshmallows can't be good for alligators teeth either, but a fellow tourist quips that since they spend most of the time underwater, their teeth are continually being cleaned!

Further into the swamp we find a couple of fully grown wild pigs, or boars, and one of these is encouraged to the boat by marshmallow treats. It suddenly hauls its hoof over the edge of the boat, showering me a brown spray, and, muddy snout upwards, it opens its mouth for the titbits. The tourists love it, and cameras are clicking away. Reg laughs that I happen to be the one who receives the muddy shower!

We enjoy the trip, and learn a little about alligators and about people whose weekend homes at the edge of the swamp were destroyed by Hurricane Katrina.

We're soon back on the bus and, back in New Orleans town, opt to disembark in the French Quarter. We have a quick look at the inside St Louis Cathedral (it's Sunday, and there's a Mass taking place, so we don't stop long), and wander into the French Market, before sitting under umbrellas outside Louisiana's Pizza Kitchen and having our lunch.

We buy sandwiches for our tea in the CVS pharmacy, and return to the hostel, as Reg needs to print out our e-tickets for the Queen Mary, which have just arrived, plus a new hostel booking for San Francisco. We've changed our plans a little, and at the beginning of June will spend less time in Los Angeles, and more time in Yosemite National Park.

Back at the hostel, the sandwiches taste awful and we can't eat them. Our tea now consists of crisps and a melted Snicker bar each, which I've been carrying around for a few days. We are not eating very heathily today!

Tonight we pack up again – we catch a train early tomorrow morning for a 2 day journey to Benson, Arizona. Once there we will hire a car and visit Tombstone - a historic Western city.

As we are travelling and are unlikely to have wifi, there probably won't be another blog posting for a couple of days.



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